My ZT restoration

Cheers Paul

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Paul (view post) wrote:On Car SOS the method they use is to slice the belt through along its length (the one on the car. Remove the half closest to the outside of the gear wheels, slip the new belt on in its place, cut of the remaining half of the old belt and slide the new one in to the correct position. This way the timing cannot 'go out'.

That will only work if the existing belt was correctly timed in the first place. About 50% of the engines we have seen lately were timed up incorrectly although I don't think they were still original belts. It is also much easier said than done, even on an 'easy' engine.

I have started to gather tools and parts to get cracking on car this week. I need to purchase rear coil springs. I have read the code for the springs are found above the rear wheel arch. I have removed all the trim, but cannot see the code.

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Post Number:**#49** by **Duncan** » March 19th, 2017, 9:05

Not above the wheel arch. They are under the rear seat cushion. On the left side. You will need to lift the seat cushion and look on the body under the sound deadening/ carpet towards the front edge.

Gents, is there an aftermarket ( non OEM) spring I can use, or should I stick to Rimmers?

Thanks again to everyone who has taken the time to answer my many questions.

Rimmers only have aftermarket (or SLP) parts these days as far as I know. For some parts they ran out of true OEM parts many years ago. I remember ordering a pair for my V6, and they sent only the one, as they were NLA after that.

OK, thanks Duncan

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If it's any help, I bought a generic rear spring for my 190 off eBay, when one broke and it's been fine! :wink:

If you really want to get original spec, then approach a spring making company (Google is your friend) and ask them if they know the difference in specs between an early and late MG ZT! :wink:

If they do, you can be happy that they will make you the correct spec springs to order!

Today I took the wheels off to start changing pads and discs. Everything is rusty :-(

I removed the brake caliper, and was removing the pad holder, when the head of one the bolts became rounded. I will have to use and angle grinder to cut the boot off.

Also, there seems to be a lot of rust on the rotor , where it meets the CV joint ( I think that's what its called). I think these may need changing. Not sure if the pics are showing the extent of the rust

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Post Number:**#55** by **Duncan** » May 21st, 2017, 8:21

Worth investing in some hex sockets rather than the bi hex ones as they do tend to round the heads. You might still get that bolt out even if slightly rounded.

Thanks Duncan

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As Duncan says.. Hex sockets are much better and give a better grip.. I have a selection now in the important sizes...

Kev

Chaps, I need some knowledge. I am overhauling my calipers, and there are two red plastic caps in the kit. What are they for ?

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Unknown part?

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brianw119 (view post) wrote:Unknown part?[ Image ]

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Looks like the bleed nipple cover